Friday July 2, jazz on the river

Friday Mary gave us a set of three keys, and explained how to use them: a little disk that opens the gate between the sidewalk and the tunnel that leads into the courtyard; a little metal rectangle with two holes that opens the door between the courtyard and their stairwell; and a big skeleton-style key that opens their apartment.

Then we went off for a walk on our own. Unlike the Thursday humidity and thunderstorms, the air was fresh and pleasant. We returned to the Georgian restaurant for lunch. The woman who waited on us was really nice, but spoke virtually zero Englsih, and couldn't find an English menu. But she understood "kebab," and with pantomime we were also able to communicate "bread" and "beer," and we had another delicious meal.

Later we found a canal-side cafe with shaded outdoor seating nad had a leisurely coffee and strawberry pie (with chocolate ice cream for Frances).

Bella had made us reservations on an evening cruise on the Neva with live jazz. We tore ourselves away from the Brazil-Holland World Cup game (it was 1-1 when we left) and set out walking to the river.

The band on the boat was a real treat. Six pieces, mostly old guys, talented and enthusiastic, doing a mix of Dixieland, Triplets of Bellville-style Paris hot jazz, and a few sentimental Russian songs. We ordered some beers, and the staff didn't mind that we had also brought snacks from home and from McDonalds. The evening light on the Hermitage and other ornate buildings along the Neva was beautiful.

Afterwards we walked across the huge square in front of the Hermitage palace. It was mostly empty. A dozen people were playing aroumd on Segways. A man approached us, trying to sell old army medals. We declined. Then he offered a jar of black caviar for 20 Euros. He even offered to let us take a taste to make sure it was real. We declined, so he hurried off across the square towards another knot of people that looked like tourists.

Back at the apartment it was after 11, but Uruguay-Ghana was on, and Frances wanted to watch, since she had gained some familiarity with Ghana when they eliminated the US. But fianally at the half she agreed to turning off the tv and going to sleep.

Today (Saturday) we will take the Metro to the Finland station, and catch the 4:30pm train back to Helsinki. To make it easier, Bella will take our luggage in her car.

We have had a very nice time in St. Petersburg!